Sarajevo is a compact city whose highlights fit comfortably into three well-planned days, though it takes some organizing since its two most important sites outside the center — the Tunnel of Hope and the cable car station — require factoring in time and transport. Here's a tested plan that mixes the Ottoman bazaar with recent history and the surrounding nature.
Day 1: The heart of the old town (Baščaršija)
Start at Sebilj Square, the wooden Ottoman fountain that has become Sarajevo's unofficial symbol; the current structure dates to 1891, when Austro-Hungarian authorities rebuilt it over an 18th-century Ottoman foundation, and local legend says whoever drinks from it is destined to return to the city. From there, walk to Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, the largest mosque in Bosnia and Herzegovina and one of the finest examples of Ottoman architecture in the Balkans, built in the 16th century by order of Gazi Husrev-beg, grandson of Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II and governor of Bosnia at the time. Right beside it stands the roughly 30-metre-tall Clock Tower. Spend the rest of the morning on Kazandžiluk, the coppersmiths' street, where artisans still hammer copper by hand the same way they have for centuries — an excellent spot for authentic souvenirs. Set aside the afternoon to try Bosnian ćevapi at one of the restaurants near Bravadžiluk street, then close the day at Vijećnica, the elaborately Moorish-style city hall that has been fully restored after fire gutted it during the 1990s siege.
Day 2: Tunnel of Hope — the siege up close
Dedicate half the day to the Sarajevo War Tunnel Museum (Tunnel of Hope), located in the Butmir neighborhood south of Sarajevo airport, about a 20-minute drive or taxi ride from downtown. This 800-metre tunnel was dug beneath the airport runway in 1993 during the siege, no more than 1.6 metres high and roughly a metre wide, and it was the only lifeline connecting the besieged city to the outside world — food, medicine, and civilians all passed through it. Today about 20 metres of the original tunnel are preserved for visitors, alongside an exhibition documenting its story and a short documentary film. Entry is 20 KM, cash only (no cards accepted), and opening hours run April–October 8:30am–5:30pm (last entry 5:00pm) and November–March 9:00am–4:00pm (last entry 3:30pm). Allow 45–60 minutes for a full visit. In the afternoon, head back into the city and walk across the Latin Bridge, where the Austro-Hungarian heir to the throne was assassinated in 1914 — a pivotal site in modern European history.
Day 3: The Trebević cable car and the green heights
Close out your trip with a ride on the Trebević cable car, which reopened on 6 April 2018 (Sarajevo City Day) after the original line, running since 1959, was destroyed during the war. The modern system uses 33 cabins carrying up to 1,200 passengers an hour, with a roughly nine-minute ride each way, and the station sits within easy walking distance of the old town. At the top, you can walk among the remnants of the 1984 Winter Olympics bobsled track, now covered in street art, with a full panoramic view over the Sarajevo valley. A round-trip ticket for non-resident visitors costs around 30 KM. If you have extra time, the trails around the summit make for a light walk before heading back down for a final dinner in the city.
Practical transport tips
Sarajevo's tram network is the backbone of getting around downtown, with a single ticket costing about 2.20 KM or a day pass 7.10 KM. Walking is the best way to move through Baščaršija itself, since its lanes are narrow and cobbled. To reach the Tunnel of Hope, a taxi or organized tour is easier than public transport given the distance. Carry enough cash in convertible marks (KM), since some sites — the tunnel museum especially — accept cash only.