Three million cross it on peak days: Istiklal — from Taksim its kilometer and a half flows with the historic red tram, covered arcade markets (Çiçek Pasajı), old bookshops and confectioners, down to the Tünel, continental Europe's oldest metro. Walk it whole once then branch: the Flower Passage, fish market and back-street churches; the historic confectioner (Hacı Bekir) rests you with baklava from the source; ever-crowded: front pockets as rule — and its night outroars its day.