World museum talk is incomplete without the Prado: the greatest royal collection of European painting — Velázquez and the Meninas riddle, Goya from joy to blackness, halls walked among art-changing names. The free evening hours crowd — the normal ticket rests the connoisseur; never attempt it all: pick fifteen masterworks by map and truly savor them; the art triangle completes with Reina Sofía (Picasso's Guernica) and Thyssen — the triple ticket saves.