In a desert fort west of Doha Sheikh Faisal bin Qassim gathered what description fails: 30,000 pieces — full wings of classic cars, Qurans and manuscripts, arms, carpets and an entire relocated Syrian house: among the world's largest private museums and, by consensus, its most astonishing. The car wing stuns even the indifferent; the beautiful chaos is the intended curation — wander, don't organize; thirty minutes out and half a day still short: pick your wings ahead.